Robert Weil Kiedrich Turmberg Riesling Trocken 2021

As in the Klosterberg site, the vines here sit in the 30- to 50-year-old range. The name Turmbergor tower hillderives from the ruins of the last surviving tower of the former castle, Burg Scharfenstein (12th century), positioned dramatically atop the vineyard. The infamous German wine law of 1971 made this site a part of the neighbouring Grfenberg. Yet, in 2005, Weil succeeded in having this 3.8-hectare monopole reinstated as an individual classified site in the vineyard register (historically, it had been a separate vineyard, reflecting the unique terroir). Its interesting to note that while Turmberg has the official right to be classified as Grosse Lage, Weil chooses to bottle an Erste Lage from this steep vineyard. There is only one tip on a pyramid, he explains, referring to the Grfenberg.

With its base of phyllite rock (metamorphosed slate) and thin topsoil, the Turmberg vineyard offers up fruit of much more mineral voltage than the Klosterberg, and in general, is a racier wine (think great Saint Aubin as opposed to great Chassagne). Again, this stunning, ultra-precise Riesling was raised entirely in doppelstuckfass for ten months.

Another taut and radiant 2021, it opens with lovely, sweet citrus and floral charm complemented by blackcurrant leaf, wild herb and peppy spice. The palate plays a blinder, with impressive density cosseted by a surging chalky freshness, striking mineral focus and exceptional length. Most would not bat an eyelid if this were labelled Grosses Gewchs.